Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Restaurant Review: Din Tai Fung



I apologize for the absence of personal photos on my introductory post. Food lovers, don't blame me. You've all experienced the feeling of being so entranced by the plate in front of you that you simply don't have the patience, effort, or sheer mental capability of snapping a quick memory of the dish you're about to devour. Rather than disrupting my fellow diners with the too-bright-for-too-long flash of my iPhone, I quit the paparazzi act and placed a small, delicate morsel of sweet and sour glazed sparerib into my mouth. It's only a few short chews until the lukewarm pork meat disrobes from the bone. A sticky and sugary honey based glaze highlights the crisped, barbecued exterior confining its tender core. The bite was slightly insubstantial - something this good deserves a bigger portion - but the $5.50 entry price made up for it. It's a quality dish, but not a standout.

I don't typically expect every single meal I eat to be a knockout, but Din Tai Fung has a legacy associated with it. The Hong-Kong branch asserts its dumpling dominance with a coveted Michelin Star rating, and the Bellevue location is expected to follow suit. A sense of excitement fills the air before stepping even one foot into the restaurant. A large, rectangular glass window framing the facade of the establishment offers pre-diners a glimpse into another realm, one occupied by twelve expert craftsmen stuffing, pinching and perfecting their dumplings. This restaurant is obviously proud of their craft. Step inside and it's apparent that Din Tai Fung is a massive, high-end Taiwanese restaurant. The ceilings are tall, the space open, and the servers communicate with each other with what seems like telepathy. Yet despite its size, the environment doesn't lose intimacy. It's all about the dumplings.

Like many restaurants, Din Tai Fung has their own name for Xiao Long Bao. They call them Juicy Pork Dumplings. The name is by no means a turn-off, and is in fact a perfect descriptor for these delicious, plump dumplings. With their puckered hourglass look, the shrimp and pork shao mai were a must-order as well. Simply eyeing them is pure joy. Slipping the Juicy Pork Dumplings between the chopsticks was too easy, perfect for transporting them to the 1/3rd soy sauce, 2/3rds vinegar dipping sauce accompanied by a few thin strips of ginger. It's immediately evident that Din Tai Fung has close to perfected their dumpling wrappers. While slightly thicker than normal, their enhanced skin adds to the unique character of the soup-infused dumplings. The bite does not immediately release the soup from the dumplings like a few others I can think of, but the broth is there and it's delicious. The entire dumpling is a pinnacle of freshness. The pork is tender and flavorful, perfectly in harmony with the meaty wrapper and subtlety of the soup release rather than overpowering those crucial elements. A little more "pop" would do these dumplings a fun favor, but as long as you're not expecting a ladle's worth amount of broth exploding into your mouth at every bite, these dumplings are divine.


The shrimp and Pork Shao Mai come a close second. The first thing noticed is that the wrappers are even slightly thicker than that of the Juicy Pork Dumplings, as they may be better served to reinforce the pork, shrimp and surprise! - soup mixture that fills this dumpling from top to bottom, like a three layer dip you can bite straight into. Again, the dumpling is super fresh. The thickness of the wrapper may be slightly too much for some but in my opinion the quality of the wrapper makes the thickness a purely subjective matter. The shao mai need to be eaten in two critical bites. The first gives you much of the wrapper and shrimp filling that lies near the top of the hourglass. The second bite entertains the palette with seasoned pork, soup, and inklings of the delicious shrimp flavor that previously dominated the dumpling. Excellent.

Din Tai Fung is a great restaurant. However, don't come here expecting a complete dumpling revelation. Despite how good, how fresh and how well crafted, dumplings can't exceed their physical makeup. They are not going to taste like magical, fluffy, cloud-like pouches from another world. You have to accept them for what they are, and appreciate Din Tai Fung's dedication to making some of the best on earth.

Food: 8/10
Ambiance: 7.5/10
Service: 8/10
Would I come back: Probably